Ireland Travel Diary
As a child, I promised myself Ireland would be the first country I visited when I traveled abroad. Admittedly, it was because it is my namesake country, but nonetheless it was a promise. As life would have it, I have traveled to more than twenty countries to date, and yet I still had not been to Ireland. So when a flight deal popped into my inbox one day, I quickly consulted with my husband and decided to finally make that promise into a reality.
Because we were married during the pandemic, my husband and I never took a honeymoon, so I used this opportunity to not only explore Ireland, but to treat us to the honeymoon that was long overdue. With that said, a couple of the places we stayed were a bit more indulgent than a typical trip, but fortunately because we were traveling off season, the rates were remarkably reasonable.
I have probably planned a trip to Ireland at least a dozen times over the years, so I already had in mind the places I wanted to visit. While my husband and I normally eschew touristy destinations, I knew I wanted to at least see the Trinity College Library in Dublin and the Cliffs of Moher.
OUR PLAN
I put together a ten day itinerary that covered quite a bit of ground while not being too rushed, and we opted to rent a car to drive the route.
- Fly into Dublin Airport
- 2 nights in Dublin
- 2 nights in Galway
- 2 nights near Cliffs of Moher
- 1 night in Adare
- 2 nights in Kildare
- Fly home from Dublin Airport
WHERE WE STAYED IN DUBLIN
The Davenport | We arrived on the 8am flight from Boston to Dublin, rented our car at the airport, and headed straight to The Davenport where we stayed two nights. The first day we mainly spent our time acclimating, trying to stay awake after a sleepless flight, and grabbing a bite to eat at the hotel restaurant before retiring early.
The Davenport proved to be an extremely convenient location for a visit to the college, as well as access to shopping, pubs, and restaurants. Their onsite restaurants had a lovely selection of dishes and drinks that were quite delicious.
THINGS TO DO
Trinity College Library | We woke early the second day and had breakfast at the hotel before walking to Trinity College, which was only about ten minutes away. On our way to the college we were sidetracked a couple times when we spotted some sweaters and scarves in shop windows, and on the way back we found a cozy pub to have a pint of Guinness for me and a whiskey for my husband, who is celiac and can’t drink beer. (Side note: Ireland is splendid at accommodating those who can’t have gluten. There wasn’t a single place we visited that didn’t have gluten-free substitutes).
While at first I was disappointed to find out the iconic Long Hall at Trinity College Library was absent most its books due to a restoration project, I was relieved to see when we got there that they at least had a few sections filled with books to give us a sense of what the room would feel like when filled to the brim.
Trinity College Campus | We also wandered around the campus, which in and of itself is worth the trip. Trinity College in Dublin is every bibliophile and academic’s dream come true.
Book of Kells | We spent well over two hours of our time in The Book of Kells exhibit, which was incredibly thorough and endlessly fascinating. The tour includes seeing the book itself at the end. What a moment to see such history. For a book lover, seeing such an ancient book in person is akin to a film buff spotting a movie star in a crowd.
WHERE WE STAYED IN GALWAY
Glenlo Abbey | We departed first thing after breakfast the next morning for our just over two hour drive to Galway, stopping in a few shops in town before heading to Glenlo Abbey to check in for our two night stay. I discovered Glenlo Abbey several years ago on one of my first iterations of planning a trip to Ireland, and it always stayed with me. The hotel, a former estate situated on Lough Corrib, dates back to the eighteenth century.
Full of old world charm with rooms and corridors that one could spend the entirety of their stay rambling through, the hotel was adorned with elegant holiday decor in every room, trees tucked in corners, and mantels draped with garlands and whimsical lights.
WHERE TO DINE
The Pullman Restaurant | I knew I wanted to include Glenlo Abbey on our itinerary if for no other reason than to have dinner at the Pullman Restaurant, located in a dining carriage on property that was once a part of the Orient Express. The carriage itself has an esteemed history and played a starring role as the set for the film adaptation of Agatha Christie’s ‘Murder on the Orient Express’ featuring Lauren Bacall and Sean Connery. I mean, we could say in a sense we brushed elbows with Sean Connery, right?
Afternoon Tea | I also reserved the Tea for Two in the River Room, which was such a lovely experience. A dainty assortment of freshly baked scones, seasonal sandwiches, and decadent pastries, macaroons and cakes were served on gorgeous fine china. Our server guided us through a sensory experience of each loose leaf tea, and recommended which teas would be best to complement the sweet and savory treats.
We chose the Irish Whiskey Cream tea for the savory and the Moroccan Mint for the sweets. The former had such a distinct flavor, it was our favorite. We even purchased several tins to gift to family and friends.
I highly recommend both the tea and the dinner, each an experience with its own nuanced characteristics. Between the included breakfast, the formal tea, and dinner at the Pullman Restaurant, our time was largely spent eating, drinking, and exploring the grounds. It was a lovely way to unwind and settle into our week of travel.
THINGS TO DO
Ride a Connemara Pony | One of my personal missions while in Galway was to take a drive out to Connemara to find a pony to visit. While I typically organize a horse ride when I travel, my husband has always been quite clear on his lack of desire to ever ride a horse, and I truly respected that. So I went with the intention of simply gaining a sighting of a Connemara pony. To my surprise, my husband decided at the spur of the moment he would chance a ride.
I jumped at the opportunity and asked the reception if there was a stable nearby. There just so happened to be the most delightful stable within a five minute drive, and we were set up for a ride the following day.
This may be the most memorable of all our Ireland moments. I was matched with a half Connemara named George, and I instantly fell madly in love with him. My husband was matched with a wonderful mare named Jess, and it turned out he loved the experience. Riding through the emerald countryside to the sound of just hoofbeats, a rushing stream, and the occasional gust of wind was truly a dream. It was sunny for most of the ride, but a drizzle moved in toward the end, making it in some ways even more magical as the light shone through the mist and billowing clouds.
Because of our impromptu horse ride, Glenlo Abbey was kind enough to accommodate a late checkout so we could take a much appreciated hot shower after our chilly outing.
Cliffs of Moher | With such early sunsets, we arrived to our apartment near the Cliffs of Moher after dark. Fortunately, it was the perfect accommodation, and our host recommended Gus O’Connors, a nearby pub, where we could sit by an open fire to enjoy a drink and a warm meal.
Even though we were only in the area for a couple days, this became our pub for the stay. My husband even made friends with some locals. Our apartment was so comfortable and cozy we both slept in the next morning and took our time heading out to the cliffs.
Since the cliffs were a five minute drive, we had plenty of time to get there and even had time to get hot coffee and pastries afterward before heading back to town. We were blessed with a brilliantly sunny day, but it was apparently the coldest day on record for the year, and we were quite bone-chilled and numb at the end of our hike.
We returned to ‘our’ pub for dinner and departed the following morning for Adare, where I met my sister-in-law and her husband for the first time. After almost five years of being with my husband, it was so special to finally meet some of my in-laws in person! We then checked into Adare Manor for a one night stay, which transcended our wildest expectations so much so that I feel it merits its own article.
We ended our trip in Kildare, which I chose for its close proximity to the Dublin Airport. We ran into a few issues and weren’t particularly impressed with our hotel, so we took the opportunity to rest up in our room for our flight home. We both agreed that anything that followed Adare would pale in comparison, so we were quite happy to consider our stay at the Adare Manor as both the highlight and the exquisite closure to our trip. If given a week to spare, both of us would gladly devote it entirely to a stay at Adare Manor. But more on this later!
